The DSA introduced the Theory Test in the 1990′s.  The intention was to make all learner drivers acquire the same basic level of knowledge about driving.  It also brought us into line with the rest of the EU.  Most of the members of the EU at the time had a theory element to their driving tests.

Since its introduction, the Theory Test has gone through a number of changes. They added the hazard perception test.   Now you use a touch screen computer to take the test.  The number of questions has increased.

Learning Styles

We need to look at how you learn before we can discuss different ways of preparing for your theory test.   You should prepare for the test in a way that best suits you.

 Each of us learns in a different way.  This is our learning style.  There are three main learning styles: Auditory, Visual and Kinaesthetic.  Most people are a mix of two or three styles – say kinaesthetic with a bit of visual.

Here are some questions to help you decide your learning style.

Do you remember the plots of films and TV programmes?  If someone shows you how to do something, do you remember what they did?  Then you are a visual learner.

Do you remember songs and conversations?  Do you learn better when some one you through the task?  Then you are an auditory learner.

Do you remember things once you have had a go at them?  Then you are a kinaesthetic learner.

Your reasons for learning affect your learning style.  Are you learning just to pass the test?  Are you learning so you can be a better driver?

Preparing for your theory test

There are a number of ways to prepare for your theory test.  You should choose the mix that best suits your learning style and motivation. 

Rote learning aids

The DSA in its wisdom decided that they had to publish the theory test questions and answers.  This makes it the only public examination where you know the answers before you sit the test.  As a result, you can learn the answers off by heart.  This is learning by rote.

If you want to learn by rote, there are a number of CD ROMs and websites available.  Make sure that the CD ROMs or website is using the current question bank.

Active Learning aids

These learning aids actually help you to understand the Theory of Driving.  People who use active learning aids tend understand the theory of driving.  Those who learn by rote can struggle to apply the theory of driving to real driving.

There are three good quality active learning aids.  The CD Rom by GSP is the best active learning CD Rom.  GSP are part of Learning Driver Centres.  The BTEC in Driving Skills takes you from core knowledge to the toughest mock theory tests around.  The BTEC in Driving Science also has an active learning programme

Preparing for the hazard perception

Stage one – Ask your driving instructor to spend a couple of driving lessons on hazard perception.

Stage two – Practice spotting the hazards every time you are in the front seat of a car

Stage three – Find a free hazard perception website and practice the test no more than three times

Booking your theory test

The DSA prefer you to book your theory test online.  You can go to the DSA website or through Direct.gov.  They will take you to the booking service.  Just follow the instructions on the booking service website. 

Be warned – at certain times of year the online theory test booking service can be very slow.  You can ring the DSA and book the theory test over the phone.  You will be on the phone for a long time though.

When you book your theory test, make sure that you tell them if you have any special needs.  You might need a reader because you struggle with reading.

The day of the test

Arrive at the test centre five minutes early.  Make sure that you have your confirmation letter from the DSA and both parts of your driving licence.  You will not take your test if you do not have these documents.  If you are late arriving for your test, you will not take it.  They have too many people taking the test to wait for you.

The test.

The theory test is in two parts.

The first part is the actual theory test.  You must answer 43 out of 50 multiple-choice questions correctly.  You answer them by touching the appropriate answer on the screen.  Try reading the question with each of the available answers.  That usually makes it clear which is the correct answer.

After the theory test, you face the hazard perception test.  This is 14 short films shot from a car as it was driven about.  13 of these films have one scoring hazard.  One film has two scoring hazard. 

Your task is to click the mouse when you see the scoring hazard.  You can score up to five points for each hazard.  You need to score44 or more to pass.

The problem is that the films contain more than one hazard – which one is the scoring hazard.  You cannot fail if you click the wrong hazard.  You can fail if you click all the time or with a rhythm.

Give a little commentary in your head as you are watching the films.  Say what you see happening on the screen.  Every time you mention a hazard click.  Click when you see the hazard and click every time it changes.

The end of the Theory test

After the hazard perception, the DSA may ask you to complete a survey.  It is up to you if you do the survey.  When you are done, go back to the receptionist and collect the result.

Don’t expect to come back from your first lesson ready for your test.  Do expect to come back from it stressed, confused and slightly hyper.

Things to do before your first driving lesson

• Read up on car controls, moving off and stopping and left turns.  There are plenty of good books.  You could use one of the two BTECs in learning to drive.
• Make sure you know where both parts of your driving licence are.  Your driving instructor will need to see both parts. 
• Make sure you have the money to pay for the lesson.  Most driving instructors will say no money no lesson
• Find comfortable shoes with a thin sole and a little grip.  It will help you feel the pedals
• If you wear glasses make sure that they are clean

The start of the lesson

When your instructor arrives, they will introduce themselves and ask to see your driving licence.  They are checking your entitlement to drive.  You can expect them to check your eye site.  They might ask you to read the number plate of a car.

When you get in the car, check the front windscreen.  All official driving instructors will display a pink or green badge in the front windscreen.  If you cannot see the badge, ask the driving instructor to show you it.  If they cannot show you their badge, they are not a real driving instructor.  You should cancel the lesson and tell the DSA.

Once you are in the car your driving instructor will need to ask you three questions.    Can they have the money for the lesson?  This gets you in the habit of having the money.  Where do you want to finish the lesson?  You might want to finish at a friends house.  Your instructor needs to know so they can plan the drive.  Is this time slot going to be Ok for you?  They need to plan their workload and keep the space open.

Your instructor will probably drive you to an area where the roads are nice and quiet.  It makes the first lesson a lot easier if the roads are quiet.

The lesson

You have arrived at the place where you will start to learn to drive. 

Your driving instructor will ask you sit in the driver’s seat.  That is all they want you to do.  You are about to learn how to set the car up for your use.  

The instructor will teach you how to check the doors, seat, steering wheel, seat belt and mirrors.  Get into the habit of checking these every time you get into the car.

Once the car is set up for your use the driving instructor needs to explain what each of the car controls do.  Some driving instructors may do this as they drive you to the safe area.  Either way it is very important that you listen to this part of the lesson.

Make sure that you understand how to use the steering wheel, brake, clutch, gas, signals and parking brake.  

Once your driving instructor has explained how to use the car controls they will explain the commands they will give.   These are the instructions they will use when you are driving.  Cover the… foot over the pedal.  More – press it down, less – let it come up.

Its now time to get the car moving.  Have fun

You need to know the types to identify the hazards. When driving it will be a light controlled crossing or a zebra crossing?    As you get closer, you will be able to see which type of crossing it is.  How many pedestrians are close to the crossing?  What can you see?

Zebra or uncontrolled crossing

These are identified by the black and white markings on the road and the Belisha beacons.  The beacons are orange balls on a black and white pole.

See the hazard.  It is a zebra so no lights to tell you what to do. 

Assess the hazard.  Any pedestrians at or near the crossing.

Mirrors

Speed.  Stop for any pedestrians using, or about to use, the crossing.  Be cautious if there is no one about.  They just might appear.

Carry on when the last person has one foot on their new footpath.

Light Controlled Crossings

Pelican Crossings. 

Look at the yellow box.  Any lights showing.  If there are then the button has been pressed.   You might see a yellow light.  The newer crossings will have two read lights showing on the yellow box.  These lights tell you that someone has pressed the button to cross.  Any one near the crossing, then expect to stop. 

Puffin. 

These have a sensor on the crossing.  They will keep the lights on read until the pedestrian is clear of the crossing.  Look for two red lights on the control box.  That is a sign that the button has been pressed.

Toucan crossings. 

A Toucan crossing lets cyclists and pedestrians cross at the same place.  Expect cyclists to zoom across.  That is what a Toucan is for.  Some Toucan crossings may have two sets of control boxes.  The rear one is for cyclists.

Pegasus crossings. 

These have a second control box set back from the road and several feet from the floor.  The box is set for horse and riders

Routine

See the crossing.  What warnings am I going to get?   Look for people near or walking towards the crossing. 

Assess the crossing.  Any body near it?  Am I likely to need to stop?  Can I see both sides of the crossing?  Can I see my clues?

Mirrors

Speed.  Ready to stop but prepared to go

Look.  Have the lights moved to amber from green?  Anybody towards the zebra crossing?  If so, get ready to stop.

Action.  Drive on if it is safe to do so.  Stop if someone is using the crossing and wait for them to get clear.

When the light moves from red to amber, or flashing amber, you may drive on if nobody is using the crossing.

Courtesy Crossing

A lot of councils have introduced courtesy crossings.  You will find them on busy roads with a lot of pedestrians.  Places where pedestrians tend to step out without looking.  The idea was to encourage pedestrians to cross at safer places. 

Courtesy Crossings are marked by different coloured stones across the road or some white lines.  They have no legal position.  This does not mean that you can ignore pedestrians crossing the road.  Once the pedestrian starts to cross you must stop.  If a pedestrian is waiting to cross and it is safe to stop then stop.

Pedestrians

A word of warning. 

Pedestrians cross the road where ever they like.  They will run out without warning.  They will cross the road feet from a crossing. 

Once a pedestrian is on the road they have right of way.  You must stop.

The Turn in the Road

The turn in the road is the original driving test manoeuvre.  It was introduced when the driving test was created.  Most driving schools teach this early on in your driver training. 

Your driving instructor will choose a nice quiet and wide road for your first go.  They will talk to you about the manoeuvre and talk to you as you try it out for the first few times. 

After a couple of driving lesson you will find that you can do the turn in the road quiet easily. Your driving instructor will take you to narrower roads, roads with cars about.  They will ask you to turn the car around on roads with a steep camber.  The camber is the way the road slopes to the kern.

The secrets to the Turn in the Road

Look where you are going.  As you reverse the car look over your left shoulder until the car starts to point the other way.  Then look over your right shoulder and look for the kern.

 Do not use the mirrors – they will not give the true picture. 

Use your clutch and brake for this exercise.  Small foot movements will give the best control.

Start the manoeuvre from a parked position and make full use of the kern

Why do I need to know this?

Imagine that you have taken the wrong turning.  You need to go back the way you came.  There are no roundabouts, and you cannot drive round the block. 

The turn in the road is usually the safest way of turning the car round.

It used to be called the three point turn.  The examiners are not worried about the number of points in the turn, as long as it right for the road.

How do I do this?

Before you start

• Is it safe to do the manoeuvre here?
• Is it legal to do the manoeuvre here?
• Is it going to affect other road users if you do the manoeuvre here?
• Is it possible to do the manoeuvre here?

Step 1

• Start with the car in the normal parking position.
• Prepare the car to move off as you normally would.
• Check all around you.  Left shoulder – each mirror – right shoulder.
• Move off very slowly.  Steer right fast.
• Stop just before you hit the kern.  Just before you stop flick the wheel to the left.
• Handbrake

Step 2

• Prepare the car into reverse.
• Look left and right
• Look over your left shoulder – out of the back window.
• Move off very slowly.  Steer left fast.
• As the car starts to point to the right look over your right shoulder and look for the kern.
• Stop before you hit the kern.  Before you stop flick the wheel to the right.
• Handbrake

 Step 3

• Prepare the car into first gear.
• Look left and right
• Drive off slowly steering rapidly to the right
• When you are in your normal road position check your mirrors and build up speed.

Points to note

1. It is not a three point turn.  Three is the minimum number of points that this manoeuvre takes.
2. If another road user appears complete the step that you are on and then wait for them to decide what to do.

What are the examiners looking for?

The examiner will tell you what they are looking for.  The list includes

Make full use of the road

Keep the car under control

Not hit the kern

Take account of other road users

Not take too long over the turn in the road

Turn in the Road The turn in the road is the original driving test manoeuvre. It was introduced when the driving test was created. Most driving schools teach this early on in your driver training. Your driving instructor will choose a nice quiet and wide road for your first go. They will talk to you about the manoeuvre and talk to you as you try it out for the first few times. After a couple of driving lesson you will find that you can do the turn in the road quiet easily. Your driving instructor will take you to narrower roads, roads with cars about. They will ask you to turn the car around on roads with a steep camber. The camber is the way the road slopes to the kern. The secrets to the Turn in the Road Look where you are going. As you reverse the car look over your left shoulder until the car starts to point the other way. Then look over your right shoulder and look for the kern. Do not use the mirrors – they will not give the true picture. Use your clutch and brake for this exercise. Small foot movements will give the best control. Start the manoeuvre from a parked position and make full use of the kern Why do I need to know this? Imagine that you have taken the wrong turning. You need to go back the way you came. There are no roundabouts, and you cannot drive round the block. The turn in the road is usually the safest way of turning the car round. It used to be called the three point turn. The examiners are not worried about the number of points in the turn, as long as it right for the road. How do I do this? Before you start • Is it safe to do the manoeuvre here? • Is it legal to do the manoeuvre here? • Is it going to affect other road users if you do the manoeuvre here? • Is it possible to do the manoeuvre here? Step 1 • Start with the car in the normal parking position. • Prepare the car to move off as you normally would. • Check all around you. Left shoulder – each mirror – right shoulder. • Move off very slowly. Steer right fast. • Stop just before you hit the kern. Just before you stop flick the wheel to the left. • Handbrake Step 2 • Prepare the car into reverse. • Look left and right • Look over your left shoulder – out of the back window. • Move off very slowly. Steer left fast. • As the car starts to point to the right look over your right shoulder and look for the kern. • Stop before you hit the kern. Before you stop flick the wheel to the right. • Handbrake Step 3 • Prepare the car into first gear. • Look left and right • Drive off slowly steering rapidly to the right • When you are in your normal road position check your mirrors and build up speed. Points to note 1. It is not a three point turn. Three is the minimum number of points that this manoeuvre takes. 2. If another road user appears complete the step that you are on and then wait for them to decide what to do. What are the examiners looking for? The examiner will tell you what they are looking for. The list includes Make full use of the road Keep the car under control Not hit the kern Take account of other road users Not take too long over the turn in the road

If you look at the top of the gear stick, you will see a small ball.  This ball is designed so that you only need to guide the stick into position.  If you have the palm of your hand facing, where you want the gear stick to go – it will go there. 

On the ball you will see the numbers 1 to 5 and the letter R.  These are the gears.  First gear gives a lot of power and little speed.  Fifth gear gives a lot of speed and little power.  The numbers are set out on an extended H.  This H tells you where to aim the gear stick to choose that gear.

How to Change Gears

Clutch down and off gas at the same time

Hand on gear stick

Move the stick into the new gear

Hand on steering wheel

More gas less clutch

When to change gear

Set off in first gear.  Into second as soon as you can.  If the car sounds fast and high-pitched, use a higher gear.  If the car is struggling, use a lower gear.  Ask your instructor for the speed ranges for each gear.

You may need a lower gear going up or down hill

Try block gear changing.  This is missing out gears to make the car work more efficiently.  You know you will have to stop at the lights – so slow down into gear and change straight to first just before you stop.

Using the Clutch

The clutch is the pedal on the left.  You operate it with your left foot.  It operates two plates in the gearbox.  These plates join the power and drive parts of the engine together.  When you press the pedal down, the clutch plates move apart allowing you to change gear.

1.    The Clutch allows you to change gear – look again at Changing Gears

2.    It allows you to control the speed of the car.  This is useful when travelling in slow moving traffic or in manoeuvres.  Ask your instructor to let you try moving and stopping the car using the clutch.

3.    It allows you to move the car when you are on a steep hill.  Have a look at the section on Hill Starts

Which gear do I use?

There is no right or wrong answer to this question.  Each gear covers a range of speeds. 

Older cars have a narrower range.  That is why older drivers will tell you that third covers twenty to thirty.  In older cars you may have to change gear to assist with braking.   The gearing in modern cars covers a wider range of speeds.  Third might cover from 15 to 40.

There are two things to think about when changing gear. 

Listen and feel the engine.  If the car sounds and feels as though it is straining change up a gear.  The engine will have a higher tone.  If the car is sluggish, change down a gear.

You must balance the engines needs with the road ahead.    Try to select the right gear for the road conditions.   There is little point changing up a gear as you approach traffic lights that have been green for some time.

It is a balancing act.  The more time you spend learning the contorls the more likely you are to learn to use them.  The less time you spend learning what each control does the quicker you can get onto driving the car.

 This article tells you all you need to know about the car controls.

The Instructors Controls

Your instructor has dual control pedals.  They are the dual clutch and dual brake.   He will use these to take control of the car and support your learning.  Do not worry if your clutch suddenly goes to the floor – its the instructor.

Your controls

Hand Operated Controls

1.    Parking Brake – This is also known as the handbrake.  Press the button and move the lever up or down.  It will secure the car when it is stopped.  Use it when the car has come to halt for more than a few seconds.  Do not use the parking brake when the car is moving.

2.    Gear Stick – This allows you to match the speed of the engine to the speed of the car.  Its use is explained in the section on changing gears.

3.    Indicator Stalk – You will find this next to the steering wheel.  This switches the indicators on or off.  Flick it up with your fingers to signal right and down for left. You do not need to let go of the steering wheel to operate the indicators.  This control will also operate the main beam.  Ask your instructor how to do this.

4.    Wipers – This is on the other side of the steering wheel.  You can switch the wipers to  single, pulse(every now and then) , continuous or rapid.  This control will also operate the windscreen washers.  Ask your instructor how to do this.

5.    Steering Wheel – The big wheel in front of you.  Place your hands at a comfortable position between ten to two and quarter to three. This provides more control over sudden car movements. To turn the wheel one hand slides to the top of the wheel and pulls it down.  At the same time the other hand slides down and pushes the wheel up.  This is known as pull push steering.  DO NOT CROSS YOUR HANDS WHEN STEERING.

Foot Controls

1.    Accelerator – This is the pedal on the right.  You use your right foot to operate the accelerator.  Apply a gentle pressure to make the car go faster.  Release the pressure to slow it down.  Your instructor will call this the gas pedal because gas is quicker to say.

2.    Brake  – This is the middle pedal.  You use your right foot to operate this pedal.  Start with a gentle pressure, gradually increase it.  Release the pressure just before the car comes to a halt.

3.    Clutch – The pedal on the left.  This is the only pedal that the left foot operates.  The clutch is two plates that connects the power part of the engine to the drive part of the engine.  Press it down to separate the clutch to change gear.  Let the pedal up to engage the clutch.  The clutch makes the car go.  If it is not in the right place the car will not go.

4.    Instructor Commands.  Your instructor will use a series of standard commands.  These will tell you what to do with your feet.  The commands are:

1. Cover – place your foot over that pedal
2. More – Push your foot down
3. Less – Lift your foot up
4. Set the gas – Enough pressure on the gas pedal to let you hear the engine.

Instruments

These are located on the dashboard behind the steering wheel.  The Speedo runs 10, 20 … up to 140 on some cars.  It tells you how fast the car is going.  The other dial is the rev counter it tells you how hard the engine is working.  Never let the rev needle hit the red part of the dial.  You will also find the fuel gage – a needle above a picture of a petrol pump.  The dashboard also has a number of warning lights.  If a warning light comes on whilst you are on the move – check it out.

Mirrors

1.    These are very important.  Your mirrors tell you what is happening to the side and behind you. 

2.    Centre Mirror – The flat mirror hanging on the windscreen.  You should be able to see most of the back windscreen whilst you are looking ahead of you.  If not move it – but do not touch the glass.

3.    Door mirrors – These are convex to allow you see a little further out.  You should be able to see a little of the back of the car with just a slight turn of the head.  If not change them – Ask your instructor how to do this.

4.    Using them – Every time you are going to signal, change speed or direction you should check your mirrors.  Check the centre mirror first and then the relevant door mirror.  Your instructor might say centre and left or centre and right.

5.    What do I look for?  Any object.  You need to know is it near or far.  You need to know is it fast or slow. 

6.    Why check the mirrors?  You need to know what is there before you make a manoeuvre.

27774 people were seriously injured – beyond hope of full recovery.

 The number of deaths among car users was 1,432.

The number of car users seriously injured was 11,535.

This is a shocking indictment of the way the UK licences its drivers. 

We are not concerned about the overall figures.  Instead, I want to concentrate on the 17 – 25 year olds.  This is the driving test demographic.   This age group is involved in nearly a fifth of all car accidents.

We need to establish the figures for the target group.  Transport for London has done this for us.  They said that in 2008 17 – 25 year old drivers were involved in 18% of all crashes.  Simple maths and we arrive at the figures we need. 

4999 people were seriously injured – beyond hope of full recovery.

The number of deaths among car users was 258

 The number of car users seriously injured was 2076

The Driving Standards Agency is responsible for driving tests in the UK.  They say that those who pass their driving test have had, on average, about 45 hours of professional training combined with 22 hours of private practice. Learners who prepare this way, with a combination of plenty of professional training and plenty of practice, do better in the test.

Yet the problem remains.  17 – 25 year old newly qualified drivers are not properly prepared for life on the roads.  There are three main reasons for this.

In the UK, the driving test is a rite of passage.  It does fit Ninian Smarts description of a religious rite.  The driving test is seen as something to prepare for – An ordeal to be survived.  Learner drives are made test ready and not road ready.

The second factor at play is money.  Learning to drive is expensive.  Parents put driving schools and driving instructors under a lot of pressure to take pupils to test as quickly as possible.  Ask any instructor if they have heard this phrase from a parent.  “It only took me 10 lessons”

The next factor at play is the test regime itself.  It is inadequate for modern driving.  The theory test is neither use nor ornament.  Learner drivers can buy CDroms with the questions and answers supplied.  There is little incentive for them to learn the subject.  The driving test is only thirty minutes.  This is not enough time to test persons driving skills.

These factors combine to release young drivers onto the roads with out the depth of skills and knowledge they need to stay safe.

Research into Drivers Ed

The main academic research into drivers Ed’ focuses on one study in America.  It demonstrates that drivers’ has an effect on road safety.

This experiment took place in DeKalb county Atlanta.  The high school students were divided into two cohorts.  One received drivers and the other did not.

This study showed that a course of drivers Ed reduced the number of accidents in the first sixth months after test by 6%.  The reference for this is a 1994 report to congress by NHTSA. 

The effect disappeared after six months.   This puzzled many of the American researchers.  The answer is simple – the longer you have been driving the more road experience you have – the more experience the less likely you are to have accidents.  The accident rates even out after two years in this country.

The only conclusion that I can draw from the American studies is Drivers Ed pre-loads driving experience.  Drivers Ed is worth six months of driving experience.

European Research.

There is no research published in Europe on this topic. 

There is one study on styles of driver testing and training.   Stefan Siegrist, Ph. D. Of  the Swiss Council for Injury Prevention bfu  published it  at the Forum on Driver Education and Training,  NTSB, Washington, 28/29 October 2003. 

The UK and Holland have the lowest accident rates in Europe.  The difference between the Dutch and the British is structure.  The Dutch system is tightly structured.

The Dutch recently piloted a tightly structured driver raining course.  It involves a series of modules similar.   The Dutch course is called Driver Training Steps. 

In the Dutch province of Gelderland in 2001, a small-scale test with the DTS took place (Nägele & Vissers, 2001). For the 109 DTS learners, the pass rate on their first driving test was 83%. In the period immediately before the DTS was introduced, the pass rate for the regular learners at the same driving schools was 46%.

 In addition, the DTS learners had not needed more lessons than the group of regular learners with the 46% pass rate. From January 2002 to April 2003, a large scale follow-up study was done in Gelderland in which 557 DTS learners participated. In this study their pass rate was 75% compared to 53% for the regular driver training given by driving schools involved in this second DTS test.

Claims for Drivers Ed.

It is reasonable to expect that a tightly structured drivers’ course will reduce post-test accidents by 6%.  It could prevent 300 KSI accidents a year.

A higher pass rate.  This is supported by the Dutch experience and the experience of instructors in the UK who structure their training.  The effect will be an 8 to 10% increase in pass rates.

A UK Drivers Ed’ Programme will save lives.

Priority

Give way to traffic coming from the right.

Types of Roundabouts

1. Major.  These are large roundabouts, which join major or busy roads together.  You might see these at the end of a fast road.
2. Minor. These join a series of minor roads together.  They tend to be smaller than major roundabouts.
3. Mini.  These are designed to reduce your speed at very nasty junctions.

Seeing the Roundabout

You might see various signs telling you that there is a roundabout.  You might see grass or trees in the middle of the road.  More often than not, you will only see traffic driving round the roundabout.

Going Left

1. See the roundabout
2. Assess it.  Is it big or small? Is it open or closed?  Can you see a lot?  Is it busy?  If it is open, large and quiet, you can approach in a higher gear.
3. Mirrors .  Centre and left mirror
4. Signal.  Left if you are taking the first exit.  Otherwise, do not signal.
5. Position.  Take the left lane
6. Speed and gear.  Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive at a safe gap.
7. Look.  Do you have enough time to enter the roundabout and get to a safe position?  Can you leave the roundabout?  If not wait.
8. Travel.  Stay in the left lane as you go round the roundabout. 

Going Straight On

1. See the roundabout
2. Assess it.  Is it big or small? Is it open or closed?  Can you see a lot?  Is it busy?  If it is open, large and quiet, you can approach in a higher gear.
3. Mirrors .  All  mirrors
4. Signal.  Do not signal.
5. Position.  Take the left lane unless the road marking say otherwise
6. Speed and gear.  Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive at a safe gap.
7. Look.  Do you have enough time to enter the roundabout and get to a safe position?  Can you leave the roundabout?  If not wait.
8. Travel.  Stay in your lane as you go round the roundabout. 
9. Exiting.  Centre and left mirrors and signal as you draw level with the exit before the one you want.  Normally leave into the left lane.

Right Turn

1. See the roundabout
2. Assess it.  Is it big or small? Is it open or closed?  Can you see a lot?  Is it busy?  If it is open, large and quiet, you can approach in a higher gear.
3. Mirrors .  Centre and right mirrors
4. Signal.  Signal Right.
5. Position.  Take the right lane
6. Speed and gear.  Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive at a safe gap.
7. Look.  Do you have enough time to enter the roundabout and get to a safe position?  Can you leave the roundabout?  If not wait.
8. Travel.  Stay in your lane as you go round the roundabout. 
9. Exiting.  Centre and left mirrors and signal as you draw level with the exit before the one you want.  Normally leave into the left lane.

Mini Roundabouts

1. See the roundabout
2. Assess it.  Is it busy?  If so, get ready to stop.  Can you see enough?  If not prepare to stop.
3. Mirrors .  Appropriate mirrors
4. Signal.  As appropriate
5. Position.  Stay in your normal driving position
6. Speed and gear.  Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive ready to stop but prepared to go.
7. Look.  Is any one entering the roundabout from the right?
8. Exiting.  Check your left mirror.  Try to signal if you can.

The parallel and bay parks were introduced to the driving test at the time of the last test reform.  They were introduced to tackle the rising number of car park bumps.  They also increase the number of parking spaces in which you can park.

Learner drivers practice thesemanoeuvres in their driving lessons.  The driving instructor will teach them the best techniques for them.  The techniques in this article will suit most readers.

Remember – if you struggle with any aspect of driving contact a local driving school.  They will be happy to help for the price of a driving lesson. 

Parallel Park

Why do I need to know this?

This is possibly the most useful of the set manoeuvres. 

In many towns, most of the parking spaces are on the road, alongside the kerb. 

The chances are that you will need to fit in between two cars.  If you drive into the gap, you will need at least four car lengths.  If you reverse in to the gap, you will need about two car lengths.  Reversing in increases the chance of being able to park.

How do I do this?

Before you start

1.     Check that the gap is big enough

2.     Check that you are not going to hold up traffic

3.     Check that the car behind you knows what you are doing

The manoeuvre

1. Draw alongside the car around which you are going to reverse.  Position yourself as though you were going to pass it in a narrow road.
2. Stop with your shoulders level with the other cars door mirrors.  Make sure that your car is straight and the steering wheel is straight.
3. Quickly take your seat belt off and put the car into reverse.
4. Look out of the left rear window.  When you see the corner of the other car steer to the left until your car is at an angle of about 45 degrees to the kerb.  It should be about half a right angle.
5. Look at the front of your car.  Steer gently to the right.
6. When your tax disc is pointing at the kerbside corner of the other car steer hard to the right until the car is parallel with the kerb
7. Stop the car when it is close to and parallel with the kerb,

Points to note

Make sure that you finish with the car within two car lengths of the car in front. 

You should not block any driveways to your left.  If, in your test, you are going to block a drive tell the examiner “I am going to reverse clear of the drive, but it will take me more than two car lengths from the car in front”.  Then reverse clear of the drive, unless the examiner stops you.

The Bay Park

Why do I need to know this?

It is normally safer to reverse into a parking bay. 

Imagine that you are at Tesco’s on a busy Saturday. 

You have driven straight into a parking bay.  You are reversing out after shopping.  How far do you have to reverse before you see the child that has run off from its mum?  Same situation, but you reversed into the bay.  How far forward do you have to go before you see that child?

It is safer to reverse into a parking bay.  You can see more when you pull out again.

Unless the parking bays are at an angle or other drivers have parked badly you should reverse into the parking bay.

This is the same skill as reversing around a sharp corner or onto a drive.

How do I do this?

There are two methods.  The straight bay park, and the angled bay park.  We will look at the straight bay park.  Ask your instructor to take you through both methods.

Before you start

1.     Chose your bay.  Ones to your right are normally easiest.

2.     Make sure that it is big enough.  Can you get out of the car when you are parked?  Don’t laugh – it does happen.

Doing the bay park

1.     Position your self three to four bays beyond the bay you want. 

2.     Position the car towards the centre of the lane.  Make sure that you let people know what you are doing.  Put the car into reverse as soon as you can.

3.     Look over your right shoulder, reverse back very slowly, steer the car into your target bay.

4.     As the car straightens up check your door mirrors.  Make sure that the car is in the centre of the bay.  Straighten the car and the steering wheel. 

5.     Look over your left shoulder and reverse back until you are inside the parking bay.

Points to note

It is vital that you keep checking all around you as you reverse into the parking bay.

Rule number one sates “Everybody else on the road is a complete and utter fool.  Treat them as such.  Stay well away and tell them what you are going to do”.   Staying away from foolish drivers is easy.  You need to develop the habit of good hazard awareness.  Try to see what the other driver is about to do well before they become a problem.

Even the best drivers are caught out occasionally.  They will have to react quickly to prevent an accident.  This article explains how to stop in an emergency.

Ask your driving instructor if you can practice the emergency stop.  You should practice it with in a driving school car.  Other drivers expect you to stop suddenly.  The driving instructor knows when it is safe to stop suddenly.

You should only use this technique to prevent injury to yourself or another road user. 

You are driving along a country road and a small bird flies out of a hedge six feet from you.  You would not carry out an emergency stop, it is not going to hurt you or damage the car.  If a sheep ran out six feet from you then you would need the emergency stop.  The impact will hurt you and the car. 

You are driving in town and a little Scottie dog runs into the road a few feet ahead.  You would not do the emergency stop.  It is not likely to hurt you or the car.  A German Shepherd Dog would need an emergency stop because that impact will hurt you and the car.

This does not mean that you should run over dogs or birds.  If you can stop in time then stop. 

What if a child runs out in front of you?  What if a car pulls out in front of you? 

You will need to practice the manoeuvre.  Only your driving instructor or driving examiner can insist on you doing this exercise.  We are trained to decide if it safe.  If you are practising with a relative, you both must decide if it is safe.

The Controlled Stop

The emergency stop is best described as the controlled stop.  You want to stop quickly and under control.

Do not check your mirrors.  There is no time.

Hold the steering wheel firmly.

Brake followed straight away by the clutch

Firm fast breaking to a halt

Secure the car and check no one is hurt. 

Move off as you normally would.

Skids

Skids are caused by driver error.  The driver was not driving to the road and traffic conditions.

If you are skidding, lift your feet off the pedals

If you are skidding in a straight line just keep the steering wheel straight.

If you are skidding to the right steer to the left until the car is straight.

If you are skidding to the left, steer to the right.

ABS

Most modern cars are equipped with ABS.  This is a system of sensors.  If the wheels are locking under hard braking, the sensors make the car take over braking.  The car will pump the breaks faster than any human can.

ABS allows you to steer in an emergency.  IT DOES NOT PREVENT SKIDDING.

If, when braking in an emergency, you feel a ‘thump thump’ under the pedals it is the ABS.  Just keep braking.